Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
